A Rare Varietal from East of Italy
by Jim van Bergen
Exto Gredic Vineyard's "Toh-Kai" Quattro Mani, 2011. Dobrova, Slovenia. $12 at Astor Wines, 12.5% ABV.
The color is a cloudy, deep straw with apricot. Herbaceous nose with distinct note of petrol that does not dissipate with air. In the mouth, light tropical fruit and bold acidity match up in a battle for control of your tongue.
Expansive minerality and some obvious heat. The petrol note found earlier is more bold, with a diesel fume effect on the back palate. Dry but lengthy finish. This biodynamic producer is near the Northeastern Italian border, and the grape varietal is tocai friulano.
Light enough to go with shellfish or appetizers and enough acidity to pair with heavy sauces or creams.
This would be a great wine to open at a summer BBQ and have people taste- I expect as many people would laud the flavors as would shy away, and doubt anyone would sit on the fence. This is one you'll either love or hate, but at this low price, you can afford to taste a Slovenian treat and find out.
à votre santé!